As I taste, study, and live with wine, I notice patterns. Slowly patterns lead to theories, which lead to philosophies. The fruits of that process of discovery and enlightenment inspire me to write these pages. Time and again wines that shine at tastings fail to provide companionship at the dining table. Savvy is the taster who knows that. Take two wines - one that stands out at a tasting, and another that is more subtle, more subdued - and more often than not at the end of the meal, it is the quiet one that will be playing a symphony in your belly, while the super-star is still sitting at table, snickering at you. Last night after a tasting at Vineyard Gate, several of us grabbed dinner at the nearby Afghan restaurant, and brought a couple of newly imported value Bordeaux at under $20 - one a 2004 Margaux, and another a 2005 St. Emilion. The 2005 is a legendary vintage, having produced wines of tremendous power and concentration. Even this non-classified St. Emilion showed bright inte...